The History of the Rolex Submariner: An Icon Beneath the Surface

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most recognisable and influential wristwatches ever created. Introduced in the early 1950s, it was originally designed as a professional diving instrument. Today, it stands as a symbol of precision engineering, timeless design and enduring value.

From underwater exploration to the wrists of collectors worldwide, the history of the Rolex Submariner reflects Rolex’s pursuit of innovation, durability and elegance.

The Birth of the Submariner (1953–1954)

The Rolex Submariner made its debut in 1953, during a period when recreational diving was becoming increasingly popular. Rolex set out to create a wristwatch capable of withstanding extreme underwater conditions while remaining legible and reliable.

The first Submariner references, including the early Ref. 6204 and 6205, were water-resistant to 100 metres and featured:

• A rotating bezel to track dive time
  
  
• A highly legible black dial
  
  
• A robust Oyster case
  
  

This marked one of the earliest examples of a purpose-built dive watch designed for professionals rather than fashion.

Technical Innovation and Growing Popularity (1950s–1960s)

Throughout the late 1950s and 1960s, Rolex refined the Submariner with continuous technical upgrades. Key milestones included:

• Improved water resistance to 200 metres
  
  
• The introduction of crown guards for additional protection
  
  
• Enhanced lume for underwater visibility
  
  
• Stronger movements for greater reliability
  
  

One of the most iconic references of this era was the Submariner Ref. 5513, produced for over 25 years. Its clean, symmetrical dial and rugged construction made it a favourite among both professional divers and civilians alike.

During this period, the Submariner also gained cultural prominence after appearing on the wrist of James Bond, further cementing its reputation as a tool watch with global appeal.

The Introduction of the Date Function (1969)

In 1969, Rolex introduced the Submariner Date (Ref. 1680), adding a date complication with the signature Cyclops lens. This marked a significant evolution, transforming the Submariner from a purely professional instrument into a versatile everyday luxury watch.

The Submariner Date allowed Rolex to appeal to a broader audience while maintaining the model’s core identity as a serious diving tool.

Modernisation and Sapphire Crystal (1980s–1990s)

The 1980s and 1990s saw further advancements in materials and technology:

• Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic for improved scratch resistance
  
  
• Upgraded calibres increased accuracy and longevity
  
  
• White gold surrounds were introduced on hour markers
  
  
• Improved bracelets enhanced comfort and durability
  
  

References such as the Ref. 16610 became long-standing classics, combining modern construction with traditional Submariner aesthetics.

The Ceramic Era and Contemporary Submariner (2008–Present)

In 2008, Rolex unveiled the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, revolutionising the Submariner’s design. Ceramic offered superior resistance to fading, scratching and corrosion, making the watch even more durable in harsh environments.

Recent references such as the 126610LN and 126610LV (“Starbucks”) introduced:

• A slightly larger 41mm case
  
  
• Refined proportions
  
  
• The calibre 3235 movement
  
  
• Enhanced power reserve and efficiency
  
  

The modern Submariner balances heritage with innovation, retaining its iconic silhouette while benefiting from cutting-edge engineering.

Why the Rolex Submariner Remains So Desirable

Several factors contribute to the Submariner’s enduring appeal:

Timeless Design

Its simple yet bold aesthetic has remained largely unchanged for decades, making it instantly recognisable across generations.

Proven Performance

Built for extreme conditions, the Submariner offers exceptional durability and reliability.

Cultural Significance

From explorers to film icons, the Submariner has become a symbol of adventure and success.

Strong Market Value

Due to limited supply and high demand, many Submariner models retain or increase in value over time.

Collecting the Rolex Submariner Today

Collectors now seek both vintage and modern references depending on preference and budget. Vintage Submariners appeal for their history and character, while modern examples offer contemporary reliability and materials.

Popular current references include:

• Submariner Date 126610LN
  
  
• Submariner Date 126610LV “Starbucks”
  
  
• No-Date Submariner 124060
  
  

Due to continued demand, many models are difficult to obtain through authorised retailers, making the pre-owned and private sourcing market increasingly important.

Sourcing a Rolex Submariner

At Impeccable Time, we specialise in authenticated pre-owned Rolex Submariner models and also offer a sourcing service for specific references that are not readily available.

Whether you are searching for a modern Submariner or a particular vintage example, our team assists clients through a discreet and professional process, ensuring authenticity, transparency and fully insured delivery.

Conclusion

The Rolex Submariner is more than a dive watch. It is a milestone in horological history and a benchmark for modern sports watches. Its journey from a professional instrument to a global luxury icon reflects Rolex’s dedication to innovation and craftsmanship.

As demand continues to grow, the Submariner remains one of the most coveted watches in the world — a testament to its enduring design and technical excellence.