The History of the Rolex GMT-Master II: A Watch Designed for the World

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most recognisable and technically distinctive watches in Rolex’s catalogue. Originally created for professional pilots, it has evolved into a symbol of travel, precision and modern luxury.

From its origins in the 1950s to today’s highly sought-after ceramic bezel references, the GMT-Master II represents Rolex’s ability to combine functional innovation with timeless design.

The Birth of the GMT-Master (1954)

The story of the GMT-Master begins in 1954, when Rolex partnered with Pan American World Airways (Pan Am). With the rapid growth of international air travel, pilots required a watch that could track multiple time zones simultaneously.

Rolex responded with the original GMT-Master Ref. 6542, featuring:

• A 24-hour rotating bezel
  
  
• A fourth GMT hand
  
  
• The ability to read two time zones at once
  
  

This innovation allowed pilots to monitor local time and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which was essential for navigation and flight schedules.

The now-iconic red and blue bezel, later nicknamed the “Pepsi”, was introduced to clearly distinguish day from night.

Evolution Through the 1960s and 1970s

Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Rolex refined the GMT-Master while retaining its core purpose. Key references such as the Ref. 1675 became staples of both professional aviation and civilian wear.

During this period, the GMT-Master:

• Gained crown guards for durability
  
  
• Improved lume for legibility
  
  
• Became popular beyond aviation circles
  
  

The GMT-Master also developed cultural significance, appearing in films and on the wrists of explorers, businessmen and travellers.

The Arrival of the GMT-Master II (1983)

A major milestone came in 1983 with the introduction of the GMT-Master II Ref. 16760, often called the “Fat Lady.”

This marked the first GMT model with:

• An independently adjustable hour hand
  
  
• True three-time-zone capability
  
  
• A thicker case to house the new movement
  
  

For the first time, wearers could track:

• Local time
  
  
• Home time
  
  
• A third time zone via the bezel
  
  

This technical breakthrough established the GMT-Master II as a more advanced and versatile travel watch.

Design Refinement and Modernisation (1990s–2000s)

In the 1990s and early 2000s, Rolex continued to modernise the GMT-Master II with references such as:

• 16710
  
  
• 16713 (two-tone)
  
  
• 16718 (yellow gold)
  
  

Key developments included:

• Sapphire crystal replacing acrylic
  
  
• White gold surrounds on hour markers
  
  
• Improved bracelet construction
  
  
• More robust calibres
  
  

These changes made the GMT-Master II both more durable and more luxurious, appealing to collectors and everyday wearers alike.

The Ceramic Bezel Era (2005–Present)

In 2005, Rolex introduced the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, transforming the GMT-Master II’s durability and appearance. Ceramic offered superior resistance to scratches, fading and corrosion.

Notable modern references include:

• 116710LN (black bezel)
  
  
• 126710BLRO “Pepsi”
  
  
• 126710BLNR “Batman” / “Batgirl”
  
  
• 126720VTNR “Sprite”
• 126715CHNR “Root Beer”
  
  

The introduction of the calibre 3285 movement brought:

• 70-hour power reserve
  
  
• Improved efficiency
  
  
• Enhanced reliability
  
  

The modern GMT-Master II balances technical excellence with bold design, maintaining its identity as a true travel watch while achieving luxury icon status.

Why the GMT-Master II Remains So Desirable

The enduring appeal of the GMT-Master II lies in several key factors:

Functional Heritage

It was designed as a professional tool for pilots and travellers, giving it genuine purpose and authenticity.

Distinctive Aesthetic

The two-tone bezel colours and fourth GMT hand make it instantly recognisable.

Versatility

Equally suited to business travel, casual wear and formal occasions.

Strong Market Demand

Limited availability and global popularity have made many references difficult to obtain through authorised retailers.

Collecting the GMT-Master II Today

Collectors are drawn to both vintage and modern GMT-Master II models:

• Vintage references appeal for their history and character
  
  
• Modern ceramic models offer contemporary performance and reliability
  Popular current references include:

 

• GMT-Master II 126710BLRO “Pepsi”
  
  
• GMT-Master II 126710BLNR “Batman”
  
  
• GMT-Master II 126720VTNR “Sprite”
• GMT-Master II 126715CHNR “Root Beer”
  
  

Due to high demand, many of these models command strong premiums on the secondary market.

Sourcing a Rolex GMT-Master II

At Impeccable Time, we specialise in authenticated pre-owned Rolex GMT-Master II models and also offer a sourcing service for clients seeking specific references that are not readily available.

Whether you are searching for a modern ceramic GMT-Master II or a vintage example, our team provides a discreet and professional sourcing experience, ensuring authenticity, transparency and fully insured delivery.

Conclusion

The Rolex GMT-Master II stands as one of the most important travel watches ever created. Its journey from cockpit instrument to luxury icon reflects Rolex’s ability to innovate while preserving timeless design.

With its technical sophistication, cultural relevance and enduring popularity, the GMT-Master II remains a cornerstone of Rolex’s legacy and a prized piece for collectors worldwide.